Colombia Route and Recommendations
Traditionally, the first thing that comes to mind when many of us think of Colombia is the cartel, cocaine, and coffee. Telling someone you’ve booked a trip there would cause heads to turn. Even now, my parents were very skeptical. They didn’t want me to go.
But after spending two weeks there, I only think of the welcoming people, colourful streets, and positive energy. The beauty that has historically been masked by its dangerous reputation is now coming to light, and tourism is growing.
Unfortunately our time was cut short because of medical reasons - we ended up flying home for two weeks from Medellin - but we plan to go back one day and see even more of what Colombia has to offer.
If you like coffee, music, history, colour, and adventure, this place is for you.
TWO WEEKS IN COLOMBIA: OUR ROUTE
Time of Year: September
Capurgana: 2 Days
Stopover between Panama and Cartagena. The boat dropped us off here, but otherwise people typically fly into Medellin, Bogota or Cartagena
Cartagena: 5 Days
Picturesque cobble-stone streets in a charming historical town on the coast
Medellin: 7 Days
Once named the most dangerous city in the world, it’s the centre of the action and a must-see
Guatape: 1 Day Trip
Just outside of Medellin with a giant rock to climb for panoramic views and the most colourful little town
Know Before You Go
Be aware that Canadians have to pay $70 - $80 upon arrival in Colombia, so make sure you have enough cash with you. Pay in USD instead of Colombian pesos because they will likely try to overcharge you if you pay in pesos.
Make sure you get your yellow fever vaccination and bring the paper with you as you cross the border. Otherwise you’ll have to pay a lot of money or get a doctor to come to your hostel and give it to you there.
CAPURGANA
We landed here after island hopping through Panama and stayed for one night. Typically this small coastal town doesn’t make it on the backpacking list unless you’re coming via boat, and that’s fine. There’s not a whole lot to see. We went directly from here to Cartagena the next day.
Things To Do
We didn’t do much in Capurgana except rest and watch the sunset on the beach. Just be aware of the pesky little sand flies that will literally eat your legs alive. Erik got over 200 bites that evening and he still has scars.
Where We Stayed
Capurgana Hotel: Do not recommend
If you do happen to stay in Capurgana, do not stay at Capurgana Hostel. It was awful (and we’ve seen our fair share of bad hostels). The rooms were so unbelievably hot that we couldn’t sleep. The breakfast was bad and overpriced. I haven’t done any research on where else to stay, but you’ll likely end up walking around to find a hostel the day you arrive like everyone else.
CARTAGENA
Visions of colourful historic walls, flowers and fun street parties fill my mind when I think about Cartagena. Most of the tourist attractions and picturesque spots are within the walled part of the city, which was built in the 16th century and has played a major role in Colombia’s history. Protecting the country from invasions and pirates trying to take over the city’s treasures, the old walled part of the city remains fairly unchanged to this day.
My favourite area was Getsemani, just outside the walled part. We stayed here and loved being within walking distance to the walled part but still away from the epicentre of tourist-ville. It’s like a postcard at every corner.
Things To Do
Walk around Getsemani and the old walled part of the city to soak in the colours. This is the safest and most foreigner-friendly area, but keep in mind that within the walls is also the most expensive.
Go salsa dancing for the night at Donde Fidel. Locals frequent this tiny bar, giving you the opportunity to dance with actual Colombians who know what they’re doing. And the beer is cheap. Avoid the bigger/more touristy bars because they’re overpriced and filled with fellow backpackers.
If by the time you reach Cartagena you’re craving some healthy greens (a rarity in Central America), hit up the fast food joint Gokela. Compared to what you’d find in Canada this place is like a Subway, but after 2 months of eating rice and beans it was a blessing.
Watch the sunset from the top of the wall. Tourists flock to a patio bar/restaurant called Cafe Del Mar for it’s stunning view of the setting sun but it was too expensive for our tiny budget. It’s quite funny to look back and think that a $9 piña colada was considered aggressively “pricy” for us at the time.
Visit the market, Mercado Bazurto if you’re there for a few days and up for a Latin American market experience. Expect to pay around 7,000 Colombian Pesos ($2.50 CAD) for a cab there.
Note to anyone remotely fashion conscious reading this - people seemed to dress pretty nicely in Cartagena, so bring some cuter outfits if you want. I remember feeling gross in my stained white tee and black shorts most days while looking around at the stylish getups.
Where We Stayed
One Day Hostel: Recommend
One Day is located in Getsemani, and we loved how close it was to everything (plus the great free breakfast). There’s a little square around the corner from the hostel that’s bumpin’ at night with street performers and food stands.
MEDELLíN
After Cartagena, we took a flight to Medellín to explore the infamous city and do a week-long Spanish course. With over 2.5 million people and a fascinating history, there is a lot to do and see here.
Tour the former most dangerous neighbourhood in the world, ride the city’s proudest transportation system, brush up your Spanish, and if you’re lucky, see the pope.
We happened to be there at the same time as El Papa (The Pope) himself. Now I’m nowhere close to religious but this was epic. We waited three hours in the rain wearing our new El Papa trucker hats. While waiting, we were interviewed by a local TV station about ‘what it means to have The Pope in Colombia’. They turned to Erik and he stared blankly back at them then said “I don’t know”. I almost ran away it was so awkward and funny. Good thing I had just read an article online about the Pope’s, so I had the chance to jump in and throw in some buzz words about ‘community’ and “hope”. We felt like idiots.
Things To Do
Book a walking tour with Real City Tours. Normally I’d prefer to walk around myself, but we heard about this group of local guides through a friend and it was one of the highlights. It’s super informative, fun, and “free” (tips encouraged).
Tip: You have to book the tour the day before and they fill up super fast so set a reminder the day before. Here’s the site: http://www.realcitytours.com/
Ride the gondola to Parque Arvi for spectacular views of the city and a little adventure. Do not get off at any of the neighborhoods except for Parque Arvi because they are considered too dangerous for tourists. Once you get to Parque Arvi there’s a little market and some nature to check out.
Go on a Communa 13 tour with Stairway Storytelling. This is the neighbourhood that used to be the “most dangerous” back in the day, but it’s now transformed to a safer spot filled with graffiti. With that being said, it’s still considered dangerous to go alone, so tour guides are encouraged. If you prefer to go on your own, don’t bring any valuables and wear “plain clothes” to blend in.
Take Spanish lessons. We signed up for a week long beginner course that was unfortunately cut short because of my hospital visits and flight back home. There are lots of schools in Medellin but the one we chose was Blink Spanish, close to our hostel and recommended by friends. It’s run by an obnoxious former-fratty American guy but the classes are taught by lovely locals.
Take the metro. This sounds like a strange recommendation on how to spend your precious travel time, but you’ll see what I mean. The metro system is the city’s most prized possession. Built back in the 1990’s, it was designed to help bridge the gap between the rich and poor since most of the lower class lives up on the hills (which can be accessed by the metro’s cable cars). It’s so well kept that there are policemen at every stop and you’re not even allowed to bring your coffee on the train.
Explore Jardín Botánico. These botanical gardens are a quiet retreat from the chaos of the city. Take a stroll to see an abundance of flowers and bird species.
Go out in El Pablado. This is where most backpackers stay during their visit to Medellin, and it feels like one big party.
Take a day or overnight trip to Guatape - see below for deets.
Where We Stayed
Sugar Cane: Would not recommend
While we liked the Sugar Cane hostel, it was too far from the main El Pablado area where the rest of our friends we had met were staying. Recommend getting a hostel here if you want to be close to the action.
We had drinks at a place called Happy Buddha that seemed like a great match for those looking to party, meet people and get that classic hostel experience.
Guatape
From Medellin we took a two-day trip to Guatape, which is considered by Lonely Planet to be “the most colourful town in the world”. There’s a ginormous rock in the middle of the lake that is believed to have come from a volcanic eruption, but nobody really knows. All we know is that you can climb it for an incredible view of the surrounding area.
However, I think the best views were from our hostel, with a balcony overlooking the lake, a dock, and floaty devices to hang out in.
How To Get There
Recommend leaving your bags at your Medellin hostel if you’re staying the night so you’re not lugging around all your possessions.
Take the bus from Caribe Station in Medellin. Click here for detailed instructions
If you want to go directly to the rock first and see the town after, ask the bus driver to drop you off at La Piedra instead of inside the town. This is the base of the big rock, Piedra del Penol, that people climb for a cool view of Guatape and the lakes. Take the road that curves up past the gas station (for 1km) to get to the rock - no taxi needed. If you can’t find the beginning of the stairs just ask the man in the gas station and he’ll show you. We took a tuk-tuk like vehicle into town after.
What To Do
Obviously, climb the rock. It’s not the MOST exciting thing in the world but you have to do it while you’re there.
Take a tuk-tuk into town and walk around. Plaza Zocalos was the most colourful part by far.
Where We Stayed
Galeria Guatape: Recommend
With a view of the rock and lake, a dock, a kitchen and good vibes, this place had everything we needed at the time. To be honest, I don’t think you need to do an overnight unless you’re travelling slowly (which we were at the time given the length of our trip).